After a seven hour red eye, crammed like sardines in the middle of the aircraft, the plan was to get to the hotel, nap and then head to lunch. As it turned out, the noise reducing headphones, foot hammock and a pre-departure workout and hot shower at home had me sleeping like a baby! So… we were excited to explore the town as soon as we checked into the hotel!
To our first lunch spot.. a local bakery / popular lunch spot. High carbs I know, but one has to taste the local flavor – besides a rice n beans lunch would certainly have us snoring ASAP!
2 mushroom puffs, 1 tomato and cheese puff, 1 chicken empanadas, Maracuya (Passion fruit) juice – no sugar – paid a princely sum of USD 12. Now headed to taste some deliciouso churros
For the piece de resistance – Panamá Canal https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panama_Canal. If you are like me, and have forgotten what you studied in school about the wonder of the modern world and the 8th wonder of the world, you are in for a treat! It is a marvel of engineering working with (rather than against) the force of water!
Did you know Panama used to be a territory of Colombia and when the French failed to build the canal President FDR sent troops to help the Panamanians get independence from Colombia and Panama was independent in one day!
Did you know that the first ship sailed across Panama in 1914 and went unnoticed by the world as that was the day WWI started?
Did you know President Carter was responsible was signing the canal operations over to Panamanians in 1971 and that was an unpopular decision from a US voter perspective?
Time for Casco Viejo – the old town of San Felipe – this is where the action used to be before Panama City came about. There is still action now, mostly tourist action – and home to the canal museum, 2 churches – San Jose and San Francisco, memorial to the French, acknowledging – albeit failed attempt at building the canal and some really good ceviche!
Post dinner drinks and nibbles at the roof top of Casa Casco! Was so great to see the locals swaying and salsa-ing – effortlessly with grace n swagger!
Some interesting sights by night
Day 2 – Panama City
Day 2 – Ruins of Panama Viejo, revisit Casco Viejo by day and a walk down Amador Causeway
Did you know that Captain Morgan (of the Capt Morgan rum fame) burned down the old city of Panama and do you know why? Outlander fans here is an interesting tidbit I learned later in the morning when we visited Hotel La Compania.
Now back to Panama Viejo – UNESCO heritage site – great place to get your steps in – be sure to have your sunscreen and lots of Aqua (water)!!
May flowers – have missed seeing them in Cali!
Some scenes from Casco Viejo by day
Amador Causeway – man made causeway built with the dirt hauled out when building the Panama Canal. Approx 4 miles long, has the famous Bio museo – dedicated to educating kids and tourists on the rich and delicate balance that makes Panama the rich place that it is.
Did you know that Panama was that last piece of land mass to emerge and connect the Americas? It is called an Isthmus ( back to school geography) and when this isthmus emerged, the species from the north and south travelled and some did not survive the journey.
Other sites on the causeway
Raspado – for those from Mumbai – think gola sherbet with condensed milk and no chaat masala – for the others – think shave ice with a local fruits syrup and condensed milk.
Last stop at Cinta Costera to take a final click before we head back to grab luggage and make our way to Cartagena!!!
Day 3 & 4 – Cartagena
I did not realize how close Cartagena was to the Caribbean islands, so no surprise about the African influence.
In addition, when the Spaniards conquered this city (the first Spanish colony in the Americas), they made it a port for slave trading and years later, Cartagena was the first sanctuary for freed slaves across the Americas. Simon Bolivar was largely responsible for driving the freedom of slaves in South America and for the independence of 6 southern American countries from the Spanish. Read more here – https://www.cuisinenoirmag.com/afro-colombian-culture-cartagena/
First impressions, our hotel room (Nacar, Hilton) reminded me of Marrakech and the lobby of the cave walkways in San Gimignano, they have integrated the old with the new very organically.
The town itself brings out mixed emotions, especially during the day when it is teeming with tourists from cruise ships.
The streets are narrow, walled by quaint and colorful houses, the roads itself could be better – and that sounds more like me with my first world outlook – so ignore that!
Cartagena has multiple plazas –
There ofcourse is one dedicated to Simon Bolivar (good looking chap😝)
One of my favorite sights, colorful voluptuous women with fruit laden heads dot the various squares, waiting to take a pic with you for a bit of cash!
Another favorite, a Botero sculpture at Plaza San Domingo
Some interesting sights across the other plazas and quaint streets
We did get to the wall, the building at the edge of the wall – was first a nunnery – where the nuns were cloistered, hidden from the outside world. So near, yet so far from the gorgeous blue sea
The theatre that stands there now was constructed on the ruins of the nunnery.
In the evening we headed to Celele in the Getsemani neighborhood – right outside the old city.
Of course I had to finish my Spanish lesson to maintain my streak
And what a meal it was at Celele
Highly recommend this place – bustling, friendly staff, open kitchen, great cocktails and fresh, delectable dishes.
We then wandered around the bustling neighborhood a bit before calling it a night
Tomorrow is another day! Buenos Noches!
Despite the late night, we were up at the crack of dawn to explore Castle San Felipe . It was 80F at 6:15am, the goal was to walk to the fort,
Walk up – a steepish quick climb, no biggie if you have been walking the Stanford dish.
What I liked the most were (a) lack of crowds because we were there right as the fort opened at 7am (b) walking through the interconnecting tunnels
Personally, what I enjoyed more was the sculpture of the old boots.
Both of us were really looking forward to lunch. Lunch was at
While the old city is what attracts tourists (and rightly so), you are doing yourself a dis service if you miss the energy, music, cocktails and salsa action at Cafe Havana!!!
Day 4 – Cartagena to Medellín (med-e-gin)
Ciao Cartegena! Tunes moi bien! off to Medellín, city of Narcos and Pablo Escobar. Flight time from C to M – approx. an hour.
At first blush, Medellín has all the urban elements and none of the nostalgic and romantic elements of old town Cartagena – a back to life, back to reality moment! First stop, the world famous Camuna 13!
Camuna – means district and district 13 was on the highway to the sea – making it a great location to smuggle contraband in and out of the city without getting caught by the cops! The residents of Camuna 13 were largely Colombians who were displaced from the villages when the rebel army took over the jungles and farms and shot down people who resisted their moves.
In the evening we had reservations at sambombi bistro local, highly recommended place, now on the Michelin discovery list in the Poblado neighborhood. all small plates at about $10 a piece.
Day 6 – Medellin to Bogota
Bogota food tour
Stop 1 – La cathedral – Empanadas – veggie options – Cheese and eggs. Delicious sauce bar.
Stop 2 – Bolivar Plaza – corn on the Cobb and sugarcane juice!
Stop 3 – Barbecued meats at Cafe Luna, arepa with cheese is the veggie option – we had the arepa
Stop 4 – Dessert – street side – waffles with blackberry jam, caramel and cream.
Colombian Hot Chocolate – typically had between 4-5pm to tide over until Dinner. The hot chocolate is made with milk and served with double cream cheese. You cut the cheese into small pieces and dunk it in the chocolate. Wait for it to melt a bit – spoon out the cheese, eat it and then wash it down with chocolate. Chocolate con queso. Followed this with a shot of Aguardiente – pineapple and anise liquor! Now to stumble on to get some premium Colombian Cafe!
Since we were so hungry after the tour (!!), we got back, changed and headed to MESA to kick off the birthday celebrations! (this is a WorldsBest50 Discovery restaurant, with a farm to table concept in the hep Chapinero neighborhood. Address is Calle 61, 5-56. Phone is +57-1-8051787)
Day 7: B-DAY the trigger for all this crazy, fun, travel!!
Thankfully (for me rather than the birthday boy!), we had an easy morning – no get up, rush and get out!
Enjoyed the view from our hotel room and made our way to the picturesque and quaint neighborhood of Usquaen. 
Think of this as a art and wine festival with a backdrop of an old church and cobbled streets.
Best Custard apple (Sitaphal) I have had in a while
Lunch at Abasto. This was one of the best meals – IMO and the birthday boy was happy too!
One must not rest when in a new place – things to do, places to explore – so says the birthday boy and so shall be done. Post lunch we are off to Monserrate, a church on a hill top with breath taking vistas.
Finally, the moment Manish had been waiting for – an evening out at Andres. In his words – “Soak in the atmosphere over all the 5 floors of what is the most super happening place in the city – with live music, dancing on all floors, enthusiastic dancing/servers, etc. Plan to be here (doing a lot of dancing) till it is time to head back to the hotel” He later said, it felt like Bogota had got together to throw him a big bash.
Started off dancing to the party bus!
I have to admit I was deeply skeptical about a place that had 5 floors of craziness, but it was organized chaos – not meant for just a specific age group (assuming one 18yrs and older). There was music, dancing, tons of food and spirits floating around! Great energy.
Needless to say, the birthday boy ended the day with smiles
mindgypsy 